Cabbage

The cabbage is a popular cultivar of the brassica family. They are grown for their leaves, which are usually green, but in some varieties are red or purple.

Soil
Cabbage prefers firm soil to root into. It is advisable to leave several months after digging before planting. Dig in plenty of well rotted manure or organic matter in Autumn. Don't use manure too close to planting time as it makes the soil acidic. Ensure the soil is not acidic before planting time, lime if necessary in winter, you should aim for a pH of 6.5 - 7.0. Acid conditions inhibit growth and encourage club root.

Location
Pick a reasonably sunny spot where no other brassica has been grown for the previous 2 years. Preferably choose a bed where peas or beans were grown last year, these plants fix nitrogen in the soil that the cabbages will use.

Sowing
Seedlings can be sown in modules and transplanted to their final positions. If sowing in the ground; sow thinly 1.5cm (½in) deep and leave 15cm (6in) between rows.

Transplanting
Seedlings are ready to transplant when they have 5 or 6 leaves. Water the plants the day before transplanting. In their final positions; leave 30cm (12in) between plants for compact varieties, 45cm (18in) for large headed types. For spring cabbage leave only 10cm (4in) between plants but maintain 30cm (12in) between rows, the thinnings will provide spring greens in March. Cabbages like compacted soil, so ensure you firm them into place. Avoid re-transplanting later.



Aftercare
Birds are a problems for seedlings and butterflies and their caterpillars for all plants. Protect against both by covering plants with a fine netting.

Harvesting
Harvest cabbages by cutting horizontally close to the ground with a sharp knife. With spring and summer varieties; cut a cross in the remaining stump to grow a secondary crop of small cabbages from it. In March thin out the spring cabbage rows and use the young plants as spring greens. The remaining plants can be left for cutting in April or May.

Storing
Most cabbages are cut when needed. To store red and winter cabbages, cut off roots and stems, remove outer leaves and place in a straw-lined box in a cool, dry place. The heads should keep until March.

Cabbage Caterpillars
Look for cabbage caterpillars when holes appear in the leaves. Cabbage white butterflies (large and small) will eat the leaves while Cabbage Moth caterpillars will burrow into the heart. All varieties will lay eggs on the underside of the leaves. The risk period is April-October and attacks are at their worst during a hot, dry summer and in coastal areas. Spray with a standard bug spray as soon as attacks begin, repeat as necessary. Inspect the undersides of the leaves and destroy eggs when found. This method requires regular checking however. For constant protection cover either individual cabbages or the whole bed with a fine netting.
 * Identifying features
 * Treatment
 * Prevention



Pigeons
You may not see pigeons actually attacking the plants as they often visit in the early morning. Damage may include torn leaves and in severe cases leaves may be striped down to leaf stalks. Droppings also make preparing for cooking a tedious task. None. Some take to shooting pigeons, which can then be cooked and eaten, however this is not always possible or safe. Bird scarers offer limited protection. The only certain way to protect is to net plants as described in the main article.
 * Identifying features
 * Treatment
 * Prevention



Varieties
Spring

Summer

Winter

Savoy

Red

Chinese